Exploring the Hakusan to Shirakawago “White Road” in Autumn

When we first moved to Kanazawa just a few years ago, I had no idea that Hakusan, just south of Kanazawa, even existed. This is perhaps not that surprising given that the municipality of Hakusan was only established just 20 years ago through the merger of several existing smaller towns. And although Hakusan Mountain is considered one of the “Three Sacred Mountains” in all of Japan (alongside Mount Fuji and Tateyama), Hakusan mountain itself has existed for thousands of years and has played a major role in Japanese religious importance since the monk Taicho ascended Hakusan mountain for the first time in 717.

Today, probably the best way to experience the natural beauty and breathtaking scenery of Hakusan National Park, is to drive the Hakusan Shirakawago White Road in the autumn, when the deciduous trees are all changing color. The White Road is a 33.3-kilometer scenic toll road that connects Ishikawa and Gifu Prefectures, and is open only roughly half the year (due to the tremendous amounts of snow it receives in winter), from early June to early November. It is easily accessible from Kanazawa or Komatsu, which make this a must-see on any travelers list visiting the area for a few days, rather than just a stop-off along the way to Osaka or Kyoto. As the leaves turn vibrant shades of red, orange, and yellow, the road transforms into a natural masterpiece, making it a must-visit destination for travelers seeking the beauty of Japan’s fall foliage.

The combination of crisp mountain air, vibrant foliage, and serene natural beauty creates an unforgettable journey through one of Japan’s most scenic landscapes. Whether you’re driving through or stopping to hike and explore, the route offers something for everyone—from photographers capturing nature’s splendor to families enjoying leisurely picnics amidst stunning vistas.

A Journey Through Nature’s Masterpiece

The Hakusan Shirakawago White Road begins near the base of Mount Hakusan to the west, and winds its way through dense forests, cascading waterfalls, and panoramic viewpoints before ending at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawago in Gifu Prefecture. The road’s elevation varies from 500 to 1,450 meters, creating a unique opportunity to witness autumn colors at different stages of their transformation.

If planning a trip several months in advance, take not that the fall foliage season typically peaks between early October and early November. At higher elevations, the colors begin to change as early as late September, gradually spreading to lower areas by mid-to-late October. Japanese maples and beech trees dominate the landscape, painting the mountainsides in fiery hues of red and orange. For the best views, visit observatories such as Kunimi Observatory or the Shirakawago Observatory, where you can marvel at sweeping panoramas of the colorful valleys below.

Waterfalls

The various waterfalls are one of the highlights along the route. Make sure you leave enough time to make a leisurely stop at a couple, at least:

Ubagataki Falls: Known for its ethereal beauty, this waterfall is easily accessible via a short 5-10 minute walk from the car park, although note that some elevation is involved.
Fukube Falls: Cascading from 86 meters high, it often sprays mist onto the road itself, this one is easily visible from across the street from car park along the route.
Jadani Gorge: A picturesque spot featuring an arched bridge and walking paths perfect for stretching your legs.
Oyadani no Yu: A free hot spring bath located near Ubagataki Falls provides a relaxing break amidst nature. Not always in operation so check ahead at the toll stop before you bring your change of gear along the hike.

The fertile valleys of Hakusan are ideal for farming. Key crops include:

Rice: Ishikawa Prefecture produces the famoust “Koshihikari” rice variety, some of the best in all of Japan.
Chrysanthemums: Known as Japan’s largest cut flower crop market.
Vegetables: Seasonal produce thrives thanks to the clean mountain water that irrigates a vast array of rice fields and farms.

Hiking Opportunities

For those who love hiking, Mt. Sanpoiwa is a must-visit. Located at an elevation of 1,455 meters on the Gifu side of the road, this moderate 50-minute hike rewards visitors with panoramic views of Mt. Hakusan and surrounding mountain ranges.

The trail to Mt. Sanpoiwa is considered relatively easy and suitable for casual (but fit) hikers. Starting at the Sanpoiwadake Parking Lot, it takes approximately 50 minutes to one hour to reach the summit at 1,736 meters. The path winds through a serene natural beech forest, offering crisp mountain air and panoramic views of Mt. Hakusan and the North Japan Alps. This hike is ideal for those looking for a short and rewarding experience without the strenuous effort of a whole-day hike to the summit of Mount Hakusan.

Mount Hakusan Summit Hike

For those seeking a more challenging adventure, hiking Mount Hakusan itself is a strenuous endeavor and should be attempted only by experienced hikers. The climb involves steep paths, uneven terrain, and significant elevation gain (approximately 1,452 meters). The round-trip distance from the Bettodeai Trailhead (note, this is on the OTHER side of Mount Hakusan, not along the White Road) is about 17 kilometers and takes 8–10 hours to complete. While breathtaking views and sacred landmarks await at the summit, this hike demands physical fitness, preparation, and caution due to its steep gradients and unpredictable weather conditions

Some Practical Information for Visiting the Hakusan White Road:

Access

The Hakusan Shirakawago White Road can be entered from either Ishikawa or Gifu Prefecture:

From Ishikawa: Start at Chugu Toll Gate.
From Gifu: Begin near Shirakawa-go Village.

Fees and Hours

Toll fees are ¥1,700 one-way or ¥2,600 round trip.
Operating hours vary by season: 7:00–18:00 in summer and 8:00–17:00 in autumn.

The Hakusan-to- Shirakawago White Road is more than just a scenic drive; it’s an immersive experience into Japan’s natural beauty and cultural heritage. As you traverse this winding mountain road during autumn, you’ll discover why it remains a hidden gem cherished by those who have been fortunate enough to discover its beauty. So pack your camera, plan your trip for peak foliage season, and prepare to be mesmerized by one of Japan’s most spectacular autumn destinations!